Dec 16-20: Sliema, Malta by Jeff & Cathy

When we were planning our post-Egypt itinerary, we chose Spain because we wanted to see more of it and because Barcelona was a good departure city for our next destination – Cape Town. The problem was, flying directly to Spain (or anywhere really) from Cairo was really expensive. But Malta… we could fly to Malta for under $100 ( total, for all 3 of us!) and then from Malta to Valencia for $36 (again, for all 3). So, that’s what we did.

Did you know?

  • Malta is one of the smallest countries in the world.  It would fit into the US 30,443 times!
  • It’s one of the most isolated spots on the Mediterranean but has been inhabited since before 5000 BC (Take that Egypt!).
  • It only recently gained independence from Great Britain but keeps its tradition of driving on the right (wrong) side of the road.
  • There are no forests, mountains, lakes or rivers on any of its small islands.
  • Malta’s drinking water is a combination of desalinated and aquifer water.
  • Valletta, its capital, was the first ever planned city in Europe sketched out in 1565.

Here are some more interesting things about Malta.

If anyone reading this thought that Malta was part of Italy or spoke Italian (rather than Maltese), you are not alone (not naming names). 

We stayed in a great place in a town called Sliema, which looks across the bay to Valetta, the capital city of Malta.
Jeff did a lot of exploratory running trips and found that while it’s possible to walk to Valetta, it’s a lot longer than the 10-minute ferry. So, on our first full day in Malta, that’s what we did. Our first stop was to the St. Elmo bastions to see The Malta Experience, a 45-minute  documentary about the history of Malta. The tickets also included a tour of the Sacra Infermeria, the hospital established by the Holy Order of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem (aka The Knights of Malta; NOT the same as the Knights Templar) in 1574. Malta has a long history, but the Knights of Malta and their Grand Masters were instrumental in bringing about stability and world recognition. In researching them a bit, I discovered that  they are the subject of many conspiracy theories. I found this article really interesting: Caped crusaders: What really goes on at the Knights of Malta’s secretive headquarters?
 
Imagine this filled with hospital beds
Brief History of Malta 

The Maltese Islands went through a golden Neolithic period, the remains of which are the mysterious temples dedicated to the goddess of fertility. Later on, the Phoenicians, the Carthaginians, the Romans and the Byzantines, all left their traces on the Islands. In 60 A.D. St. Paul was shipwrecked on the island while on his way to Rome and brought Christianity to Malta. The Arabs conquered the islands in 870 A.D. and left an important mark on the language of the Maltese. Until 1530 Malta was an extension of Sicily: The Normans, the Aragonese and other conquerors who ruled over Sicily also governed the Maltese Islands. It was Charles V who bequeathed Malta to the Sovereign Military Order of St. John of Jerusalem who ruled over Malta from 1530 to 1798. The Knights took Malta through a new golden age, making it a key player in the cultural scene of 17th and 18th century Europe. The artistic and cultural lives of the Maltese Islands were injected with the presence of artists such as Caravaggio, Mattia Preti and Favray who were commissioned by the Knights to embellish churches, palaces and auberges. In 1798, Napoleon Bonaparte took over Malta from the Knights on his way to Egypt. The French presence on the islands was short lived, as the English, who were requested by the Maltese to help them against the French, blockaded the islands in 1800. British rule in Malta lasted until 1964 when Malta became independent. The Maltese adapted the British system of administration, education and legislation. Modern Malta became a Republic in 1974 and joined the European Union in May 2004. (www.visitmalta.com)

After our tour we walked south along the Grand Harbor and saw the Lower Barakka Gardens and the War Siege Memorial before heading into the center of town, towards the ferry. There were lots of Christmas lights in the main part of town and lots of people walking about. The setting sun made the lights progressively more beautiful, but it also started to get cold, so we rushed back to the ferry and jumped on just in time.
Our second day was much more structured. Jeff booked a boat trip to see two of Malta’s other islands – Gozo and Comino – and we hopped on board at 9:30 am.
Jean Paul – Captain/Owner of Luzzu Tours

The wind had really come up and the ride was rough. Like THAT kind of rough. We were on the upper deck in the front where we could see better while being slightly sheltered. In our general vicinity was a group of Scandinavian guys who took advantage of the cruise’s open bar immediately and were soon sloshing beer about. (Our Captain, Jean Paul, was not amused.) In front of us was a cute couple from Slovakia and across the aisle from us was a mother and her daughter. Directly across from us was a young, I think Russian man and woman. As soon as we started rocking, the man didn’t look good. And when one of the crew members came around offering emergency bags (sick sacks), he really should have taken one. Shortly after, the daughter of the mother/daughter team decided to follow her mother below-deck to be near the bathroom and right as she was walking in front of green-face guy, the boat rocked, she stumbled, caught herself, and then said to all who saw her, “Wish me luck.” It was at that most inopportune moment that green-face guy projectile vomits, hitting himself, the girl, and the surrounding areas, all of which immediately had THAT smell. Those of us who had been doing just fine, all of a sudden felt a bit queasy. With amazing speed, considering the rocking of the boat and the smell, the same crew member who’d walked around earlier with the means of preventing this disaster, soon had the area clean and smelling strongly of Lysol.

Mgaar Harbor
 We happily arrived at Mgaar Harbor in Gozo and were met by two vans to take us to Dwejra Bay (fortunately a quick drive since GFG took the last seat in our van).
Dwejra Bay is famous for being the home of the Azure Window, a beautiful natural wonder that’s graced tourists’ photos for years and provided a lovely backdrop for Khal Drogo and Daenerys Targaryen’s wedding in Game of Thrones, Season One.
That was then….
The only thing is, on March 8, 2017, the arch of the Azure Window collapsed, leaving no evidence of its former glory.
This is now.
The ground in this location is full of fossils – more than I’ve ever seen in one place – and there were some really interesting basin formations.
See the sand dollar?

From Dwejra Bay we headed to Victoria, where we had a little over an hour to explore The Citadel and the Cathedral at its center. The views from the walls were spectacular. Whereas the main island of Malta seems to be nothing but stone buildings, Goza has a lot of green.
Finding a quick lunch was next on our itinerary and we found a great cafe, run by the nicest Maltese man before heading back to out meeting place.
I found “Gozitan” cuisine funny

Our bus driver had his sidekick, a Yorkshire terrier named Cookie, along with him and we cracked up as he cooed and made baby talk to her on our way back to the harbor.

The smaller island of Comino was our next destination. Whereas the island of Gozo has a sizable population (30,000), Comino has just three (full-time). When we came close to the rocky coast, we figured we were just taking a look from the boat, but with some experienced maneuvering, our crew was able to lift and lower the gangplank in such a way to let us off but not damage the boat.
We had about an hour to explore and it was gorgeous. Even though it was cold, we all wished we’d brought our swimsuits. The water – so, so blue.
Instead, we walked along a lovely dirt path towards a tower that was used in filming The Count of Monte Cristo, which conveniently we’d watched when we were in Paris.
Fortress portrayed as Château d’If in the 2002 Count of Monte Cristo
Before returning to the main island, we cruised by (and partially into) some of Gozo’s deep caves. In a very short time on Comino, we added to our photo library significantly.
Elephant Rock
Our journey back to the main island was smooth sailing compared to earlier in the day, so all three of us enjoyed cocktails from the open bar (beer, wine, Fanta) while watching the sun set.
 
We started out our last full day with another cruise, a 2-for-1 deal from the company we cruised to Gozo and Comino with. This cruise of Malta’s two main harbors and took less than two hours with no stops, but the water was calm and we got to see a lot more of Malta than we would have on foot.
 

Malta wasn’t a place we’d thought to visit, until we did, but we feel lucky to have seen it’s blue waters and compact beauty.